Athens – Snapshots & My Thoughts by Ailee Petrovic

City Guide September 23, 2014

Athens (And Surrounding Cities) Travel Guide

It astounds me that Athens is a city that has recently gotten a bad rap amongst American tourists as being ‘dirty’ (I hear this all the time!).I’ve traveled quite a bit around the world, and the Greek capital is one of my favorite places to visit. Not only is it a mecca of ancient history, resulting in gorgeous monuments and ruins everywhere you look, the food is phenomenal. I repeat, phenomenal.

Sasha and I visited Athens in December, which is the off-season, so we got to experience the touristy activities in a slightly quieter environment. We spent four days in Athens, and then took a day trip to Corinth with Greece Private Tours and loved it.

One of my best friends, Brooke, just returned from a trip to Athens with her family. They booked their vacation through Olympic Tours and were shown around Athens, then driven to Corinth for a day, visited Olympia for one night and ended their Greek tour in Nafplio, where they spent three days. Brooke kindly wrote recommendations for the latter two cities to help make this travel guide a multi-faceted Greek sightseeing bible (thank you, sweet friend!).

Below you’ll find restaurant, site, and activity recommendations for all four cities. If you have any questions, please email me. To find the full list of my travel guides, click here.

ATHENS

Food & Drink

Oroscopo: This little Greek restaurant won’t win you over with their decor, but I promise that the food is delicious. They serve the most amazing baked feta dish which I highly recommend.
Strofi: The views from the top floor of Strofi are unmatched. The mood is slightly romantic, with dim lights and candles, and the food is (ohmygosh) tasty. Sasha and I both devoured salad appetizers and barely had room for our main courses.
Avocado: A vegan restaurant in Greece? Why bother? Well, because it’s heavenly. Even Sasha (solid carnivore) said it was the best meal he ate in the city. We ordered falafel, Ashima (a quinoa dish), the forest burger and vegan chocolate pie, and savored every last bite.
Thanasis: Order the spicy peppers (of course, too hot for Sasha to handle!) and get their Greek salad – it was one of the most beautiful and colorful dishes I’ve ever eaten.
Cafe Boheme: The food at Boheme was delicious and tasted very authentic. It’s best if you can get a table outside.
Piazza Duomo: Sasha drank Irish coffee and ate apple pie, and I sipped on flavorful Greek coffee (me) while doing some serious people watching. It’s in the middle of the Monastiraki neighborhood, so there is a lot of hustle and bustle nearby (i.e. good people watching).
Orizontes Lycabettus: After a long walk to the top of Mt. Lycabettus (or less tiring funicular ride), you should reward yourself with wine at this gorgeous glass restaurant and make sure to take a million photos outside (over all of Athens).
Yogolicious: After eating dinner one night, I told Sasha that all I wanted was frozen yogurt, and voila, we found Yogolicious, which is a slice of America transplated into this ancient city. The yogurt was delicious, and the area is great to walk around at night (live music, bars, etc.).
Lucafe: We sat by the fire outside and had Greek coffee and wine while watching the world pass by. Get a seat outside and sit side-by-side so you can get good views of passersby.
Vezene: This gem is a peaceful 30 minute stroll from the Acropolis, so we went one night after staring at the old monument. The meal was worth the walk, and the service was phenomenal. Just learn how to say ‘please’ and ‘thank you’ – ‘parakalo’ and ‘efharisto’!

Sites

Parthenon: The Parthenon is the large stone building at the top of the Athenian Acropolis (see more below). It is the most important surviving building of Classical Greece and is regarded as an enduring symbol of Ancient Greece, Athenian democracy and western civilization, and one of the world’s greatest cultural monuments. The Greek Ministry of Culture is currently carrying out a program of selective restoration and reconstruction to ensure the stability of the partially ruined structure. It is important to note what times the Parthenon is open, as we made several attempts to view it but it had already closed.
Acropolis: The Acropolis is located on a rocky promontory over 520 feet above the valley of Ilissos. The Acropolis has been a fortress to protect places of worship and royal palaces from 2000 BC. Over years, fighting and wars destroyed the Acropolis and forced it to be rebuilt. I highly recommend that you get a private tour guide through Olympic Tours so you can get the full experience with the history, background and fun facts about Greek Mythology.
Mount Lycabettus: The peak of Mount Lycabettus is highest point in the city that surrounds it. Pine trees cover its base, and at its peaks are the 19th century Chapel of St. George, a theatre, and a restaurant (mentioned above). The hill is a popular tourist destination and can be ascended by the Lycabettus Funicular, a funicular railway which climbs the hill from a lower terminus at Kolonaki (the railway station can be found at Aristippou street). Sasha and I walked up to the top and were very tired when we arrived, but the views were breathtaking and make the semi-hike worth it.
Temple of Olympic Zeus: This colossal temple in the center of the city was dedicated to Zeus, king of the Olympian gods. Construction began in the 6th century BC during the rule of the Athenian tyrants, who envisaged building the greatest temple in the ancient world, but it was not completed until the reign of the Roman Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century AD. The temple is very much in ruins now, but it is worthwhile visiting.
Panathinaikon Stadium: You will find this ancient stadium while walking through Zappeion. It is where the first modern Olympics took place in 1896. Sasha and I played on the field like children, and took great enjoyment in doing so.
Church of Panagia Gorgoepikoos: This gorgeous church is located in the Plaka region of Athens and was built over 700 years ago. We weren’t inside of the church for very long, but we took some gorgeous photos of the intricate interior and exterior.

Activities

Take photos outside of the Presidential Mansion (lots of marching armed guards)
Go to the Acropolis Museum – not only is it gorgeous architecturally, you will learn lots about Greek history, especially that of Athens
Try the ouzu liquor (typically complimentary at nice restaurants), but be prepared to sneakily spit it out in a glass (it tastes like gasoline!)
Spend lots of time wandering through the the Monastiraki neighborhood (little flea market neighborhood with good shopping and cafes)
Get a massage at Hammam Baths (recommend the Ali Hammam one) – remember to bring a swimsuit!
Shop at the massive H&M in the Monastiraki neighborhood – one of the best I’ve ever visited
Go to the rooftop restaurant of Hotel Divani Acropolis and have a drink while watching the Acropolis light up at night

CORINTH

Food & Drink

Marinos Restaurant: The views from Marinos Restaurant are phenomenal, as is the food. The staff are very polite, and eating here is definitely a must-do during a trip to Corinth.
Papaioannou Wine: We visited Papaioannou Wines as part of our private tour, and drink a handful of delicious wines. They have massive barrels everywhere, and while it may not be up to Napa Valley’s aesthetical vineyard standards, the wine makes up for it.
Palivou Estate: Sasha and I loved Palivou Estate’s wine so much that we bought a massive bottle and carefully brought it back over to the states and are so nervous about opening it (when is the right moment to open your favorite wine from Greece?). The staff were incredibly friendly and we loved chatting to them about the wine making process and sipping a number of their award winning wines.

Sites

Corinth Canal: When driving from Athens to Corinth, you pass over the Corinth Canal, and should stop to take pictures of this terribly narrow waterway. The canal connects the Gulf of Corinth with the Saronic Gulf in the Aegean Sea, and cuts through the narrow Isthmus of Corinth and separates the Peloponnese from the Greek mainland.
Ancient Corinth Archaeological Site: This site is where the ancient city of Corinth existed, which is separate from the modern city now. There is a museum on the site which is worthwhile visiting, as it houses a large collection of artifacts of the local archaeological site and smaller sites in the neighboring area.
Acrocorinth Fortress: Acrocorinth was first a Greek acropolis, then a Roman citadel, and later, a Byzantine fortress. You will see this fortress from any point in Corinth, and need a car or taxi to drive you to the top. Walk up the cobblestones to the top for the most breathtaking views (a great photo opp!).
Mycenaen Ruins: Mycenae was the center of power in the Late Bronze age (1600-1100 BC). The ruins of the Mycenaean Acropolis themselves are awe-inspiring – most notably the Lion Gates, which is the earliest known piece of monumental sculpture on the European continent. You can (and should) also visit the tomb where Agamemnon was murdered by his wife and her lover after he returned from the Trojan war (see photos below).

Activities

Visit the museum at the Ancient Corinth Archaeological Site and read about the rich history of the area
Step inside one of the gorgeous churches in the area (i.e. go to church with the Corinthians!)
Walk inside the monmouth grave tomb of Agememnon in the Mycenean Ruins and spend time in the adjacent museum
Go on the Wine and History Tour with Greece Private Tours

OLYMPIA

Food & Drink

Eat dinner at the Europa Hotel (family run restaurant) and watch the sunset – the most beautiful views and delicious food

Sites

Ancient Olympic Games site: Do a private guided tour through Olympic Tours (request Niki as your tour guide – also recommended by Rick Steves). Imposing temples, votive buildings, elaborate shrines and ancient sporting facilities were combined in a site of unique natural and mystical beauty. Olympia functioned as a meeting place for worship and other religious and political practices as early as the 10th century B.C. The central part of Olympia was dominated by the majestic temple of Zeus, with the temple of Hera parallel to it.

NAFPLIO

Sites

Palamidi Castle: This castile is a fortress built by the Venetians during their second occupation of the area between 1686 and 1715. There are 857 steps in the winding stairs from the town to the fortress. However, to reach the top of the fortress, there are over 1,000. It is definitely worth the hike!

Activities

Do a Segway tour through the city but make sure you know how to fully operate one!
Rent a bike for four and explore the city
Sail with Captain Aris for a day where you will take a private sailboat out to an uninhabited Greek island where you get to swim, snorkel, etc.
Take a day trip to the Island of Spetes
Walk to a nearby beach and take a dip in the Aegean Sea (there are no sharks!) and take a morning stroll along the coast
Hike up to the top of Palamidi Castle and explore the inside (including the ancient dungeon)
Take an excursion to Epidaurus to visit the famous ancient amphitheater and
archaeological site
Visit the winery at the famous Nemea wine producing area
Tour an ancient Greek church in the city (so beautifully decorated)
Eat along the water at sunset at one of the many delicious Greek restaurants

City Guide August 21, 2014

Istanbul Travel Guide

For years and years, I dreamed of going to Istanbul, and two years ago, Sasha and I decided to travel there after his MBA international trip took him to Accra, Ghana. He met me in Turkey, and we spent five days adventuring before heading to Athens (also highly recommended – travel guide to come soon!). There are so many iconic sites to see and oodles of delicious Turkish food and wine to be eaten. We both agree that our days in Turkey were some of our favorite together – this also includes the latter half of our trip, during which we went to Cappadocia. See photos of Cappadocia here.

I kept a very good travel diary while I was there, which was very helpful in writing this post. I also blogged while we were traveling – you can read the Istanbul posts here, here and here – lots of pictures! I have the travel bug and am dying to take Isla on an adventure, which Sasha laughs at. We are going to Mexico City in just a few weeks to celebrate one of my best friend’s weddings – I cannot wait to explore this historic city with some of my closest friends.

Have you ever been to Istanbul? If so, what would you add to my travel guide below? Click here to see a complete list of my travel guides, which includes Bali, Paris, Durango, Austin, Houston, Washington, DC, and San Francisco.

Food + Drink

Amedros Cafe – True story – Sasha and I still talk about the halloumi cheese appetizer we got at Amedros Cafe. It was that good (and there’s a photo here).

Pasazade Restaurant – We were starving, walking around Istanbul trying to find Pasazade Restaurant after tackling some of the big sites earlier in the day. When we finally found Pasazade (check out TripAdvisor, I’m not the only one to recommend it!), we were overwhelmed by the happy servers. The entire staff was so happy and accommodating. We ate the Vegetable Bükme as an appetizer, then I had the Herb Sauté with Mushrooms and Sasha ate the Seferceliye. We of course dabbled in the Turkish wine. We were most excited about the slanted white plates that the food is served in! It’s the little things in life, I suppose!

Aloran Cafe – We walked by Aloran Cafe and it was empty (December is not tourist season in Istanbul), so we kept walking, even though it was ranked highly on TripAdvisor. The owner came outside and convinced us to come in, and ohmygosh am I glad we did. Sasha ate the kebab and I had a mixed vegetable dish – we were so full by the time we left, it wasn’t even funny. We had the Turkish wine recommended by our waiter and moved from glasses to a bottle rather quickly.

Red River – If you want to enter back into the Western world for a minute or two, go to Red River for a drink. We got complimentary drinks because we are from Texas, duh!

Al Bushra Restaurant and Bar (at Hilton Istanbul) – The views from this delicious restaurant are unbelievable. We felt funny eating at the hotel where we were staying, as we typically avoid that, but it was highly recommended by past visitors, so we gave it a try. This Lebanese restaurant was intimate with low lighting and round tables with comfy cushions. I ordered the falafel and highly recommend it!

Juno – We went to this eclectic little restaurant near the Hilton for a drink before dinner, and ended up staying to eat as we loved the atmosphere. We asked the waiter what he recommended (one meat, one vegetarian) and ordered that! I don’t think you can go wrong at Juno.

Pierre Loti Cafe – Apple tea. That’s all I need to say. I will dream of that drink forever! This little cafe boats amazing views of the Golden Horn. We also had Turkish coffee, which tasted like heaven as well.

Sites

Basilica Cistern – These underground caverns are the largest of several hundred ancient cisterns that lie beneath the city of Istanbul. The cistern was built in the 6th century during the reign of Byzantine Emperor Justinian I. The lighting is kind of eerie, but it’s worth visiting.

Topkapi Palace – This large palace was the primary residence of the Ottoman sultans for approximately 400 years. As well as a royal residence, the palace was a setting for state occasions and royal entertainments. Not only is the palace a majestic sight to see, the outer gardens are equally exquisite.

Hippodrome of Constantipole – The area is officially called Sultan Ahmet Square and used to be an area for the circus and other entertainment. The course of the old racetrack has been indicated with paving, although the actual track is 6+ feet below the present surface. The surviving monuments are two obelisks and the Serpentine Column, and these now sit in holes in a landscaped garden. The walled obelisk is massive and definitely worthy of photographing. The hippodrome is in the same area as Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and Basilica Cistern.

Istanbul Archaeology Museum – We ducked into this museum as it started raining, and were really glad we had. The architecture of the old buildings and the gorgeous exhibits are fascinating – all signs have English translations, so you can follow along. If you are a museum person, I recommend you visit the Archaeology Museum.

Blue Mosque – One of the most famous sites in the world, the Blue Mosque (technically called Sultan Ahmed Mosque) will not fail to impress you. The mosque has one main dome, six minarets, and eight secondary domes. The design is the culmination of two centuries of Ottoman mosque development. It incorporates some Byzantine Christian elements of the neighboring Hagia Sophia with traditional Islamic architecture and is considered to be the last great mosque of the classical period. Be sure to wear conservative clothing during your trip to Istanbul – you will have to also wear a hijab (head scarf) before entering, but don’t worry, you’ll get one before you go in.

Hagia Sophia – Hagia Sophia s a former Greek Orthodox patriarchal church, that later became a mosque when Constantinople was conquered by Ottoman Turks. It is now a museum. You can see where the Muslims plastered over images of Jesus and Mary – it is a fascinating place to walk through. The view from the main entry (look upward) will take your breath away.

Gulhane Park – This park is luscious and green (and we visited in December!), and we spent about an hour just wandering through (and getting some delicious warm coffee). It’s a pleasant break from the busy hustle and bustle of the city.

Egyptian Spice Bazaar – The spice bazaar is a shock to your senses in the very best way. We spent about two hours just walking through and buying coffee, nuts, dried fruit and spices to take home. We bought the most amazing coffee (see note below), which all of the gift recipients loved.

Grand Bazaar – The grand bazaar is also rather overwhelming, as it is literally a maze of stores. As long as you’re not claustrophobic, you will love it. The stores aren’t selling high-end goods, but the trinkets, scarfs, candles, etc. are definitely worth looking through.

Rüstem Pasha Mosque – The Rüstem Pasha Mosque is famous for its large quantities of exquisite İznik tiles, set in a very wide variety of beautiful floral and geometric designs. The mosque is built on a high terrace over a complex of vaulted shops, whose rents were intended to financially support the mosque complex. The narrow, twisting interior flights of steps in the corners give access to a spacious courtyard. We went into this quiet mosque for a private tour – it was very calm and beautiful.

Pierre Loti Funicular – We rode the funicular ride up to the top of Pierre Loti Cafe, where the views of the Golden Horn are breathtaking. The hot apple tea at the cafe (mentioned above) was a perfect treat to sip on while taking in the views.

Activities

Stand in line at the Egyptian Spice Bazaar to buy coffee from Mehmet Efendi – it is well worth the wait (and bring some home for family and friends!)
Sign up for a tour with True Blue Tours (request Yilmaz – he was wonderful)
Take a boat ride on the Bosphorus
Done a hijab and enter a mosque with a local who can explain what happens where and why
Drink lots and lots of Turkish wine
Order a clay pot dish, which they will break at your table
Get lost in the Grand Bazaar (make sure to haggle!)
Walk around Gulhane Park
Take pictures inside Hagia Sophia – it is gorgeous
Wander through the Basilica Cistern (get the audio guided tour – it’s worth it!)

International June 12, 2014

Bucket List: Famous Landmarks

If you’ve been following Snapshots and My Thoughts for any length of time now, you’ll now that I love to travel. I have an extensive list of places I’m dying to go and visit – Sasha tells me that I “need to pump my breaks,” because I’m already planning an international trip for us three in December, and he thinks it’s a bad idea to take a 6 month old out of the country. We’ll see! I am not a list-checker when I travel, but there are some iconic landmarks I’m dying to see – see below. Have you been to any of these? If so, I will be asking for advice on what to do and see. Machu Picchu is probably at the top of that list! I’ve been very fortunate and have ticked-off quite a few of my ‘to-sees’ in the last few years (pictures below). Of all these places, Sydney, Istanbul and Paris were definitely my favorites.

As the adage goes, ‘not all who wander are lost…‘

Great Wall of China

Beijing, China

Machu Picchu

Peru

Cristo Redentor

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Giza Pyramid and Great Sphinx

Cairo, Egypt

St. Basil’s Cathedral

Moscow, Russia

Taj Mahal

Agra, India

The Colosseum

Rome, Italy

Stonehenge

Wiltshire, England

Petra

Jordan

Milford Sound

New Zealand

Newgrange

Dublin, Ireland

Some iconic landmarks that I have visited – and would love to see again! These travels have taken place mainly over the past 6 years – I don’t have many older pictures on my computer. I would love to give suggestions on any of these places if you’re traveling there!

Table Mountain

Cape Town, South Africa

Sydney Opera House

Sydney, Australia

Eiffel Tower

Paris, France

Mont St. Michel

France

Tirta Empul Temple

Bali, Indonesia

Statue of Liberty

New York, New York

Golden Gate Bridge

San Francisco, California

Grand Canyon

Arizona

Iguazu Falls

Argentina/Brazil Border

The Parthenon/Acropolis

Athens, Greece

The Blue Mosque

Istanbul, Turkey

Devrent Valley (or Imagination Valley)

Cappadocia, Turkey

El Obelisco

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Big Ben

London, England

Want to track your worldly travels? Try Wolpy – it’s free and I love it!

City Guide January 2, 2014

Bali Travel Guide

If you’ve been reading Snapshots and My Thoughts for awhile now, you’ll know that my husband and I just got back from our delayed honeymoon to Bali. We were gone for 15 days and loved every minute of the trip. We had a 50/50 split between relaxation and cultural activities, so we saw the best of both sides of the island. We ate some amazing meals, especially those in Ubud and Seminyak (where we believe the best food is on the island). We stayed at the Conrad Bali, which was dream-like. The hotel is located in Nusa Dua, which is at the southern part of the island, near most of the other big name hotels. If we were to go back again though, we would stay in Seminyak at an independent hotel to be close to the beach, quality shopping and delicious food – ideally the Samaya Hotel. It’s also important to spend a good amount of time in Ubud, which is in the northern part of the island and is the heart of the culture and arts scene. My last big tip is to get a good driver. We found Panji of Bali Safest Driver on Trip Advisor, and he was such a saving grace. Don’t rent a car – the driving is out of control. Email Panji and he’ll take you wherever your heart desires, and his rate is more than reasonable. Please contact me if you are planning a trip – I’d love to help!

Best restaurants (all with good vegetarian options)

Chandi in Seminyak: Our favorite meal by far – I wanted to savor every single bite and I’m craving the crispy tofu appetizer right now!
Melting Wok Warung in Ubud: This small restaurant has a limited menu, but they’ve perfected each of those dishes, so you can’t go wrong.
Bumbu Bali in Nusa Dua: Sign up for the cooking class and then eat at the restaurant (in that order), so you’ll appreciate every delicious bite.
Sakala in Nusa Dua: A very fancy restaurant (think gastro-cuisine) with delicious meals and a very Vegas-meets-Bali atmosphere.
Bella Vista in Legian: A gem cafe with a delicious menu – we found Belle Vista on Trip Advsior – the good reviews weren’t wrong!
The Bistrot in Seminyak (shown below): I want this restaurant in Houston. The decor and food were both out of this world. I loved it!
Rin in Nusa Dua: This Japanese restaurant is part of the Conrad, but open to all guests – Sasha liked his sushi and I loved my seaweed salad.
8 Degrees South in Nusa Dua: You feel like you’re sitting on the beach while eating tasty mediterranean cuisine – the best of both worlds.

Must-Do Activities

Visit the Tirta Empul Temple – bring a spare set of clothes so you can get into the holy water and pray
Go and watch the Devdan Show at the Nusa Dua Theater – well worth the ticket cost
Go to Jimbaran Bay for sunset and eat at one of the many beach-front seafood restaurants
Take a Balinese cooking class – I highly recommend Bumbu Bali with Chef Heinz von Holzen
Visit Padang Padang Beach where they filmed Eat, Pray, Love
Go to the Elephant Safari with Bali Adventure Tours
Get a massage at the Jiwa Spa at the Conrad Hotel
Enroll in surfing classes at Pro Surf School on Legian Beach
Shop in local markets in Ubud
Try Luwak Coffee at Santi Coffee Plantation
Eat dinner in Seminyak (see recommendations above) and browse in the nearby boutiques
Watch a traditional Balinese dance performance
Play with monkeys at the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary in Ubud
Try mangosteen
Play with parrots at the Blanco Museum in Ubud

Area Guides

Ubud: The yoga-crowd of Bali resides here. There are hippie coffee shops, yoga stores everywhere, gorgeous temples, elephants, and a monkey forest. What more could you ask for? You could easily spend 3 days in Ubud.
Seminyak: Sasha and I loved Seminyak and would choose to stay in one of the gorgeous hotels here and eat all the delicious food nearby. The boutiques have high-end shopping that I was drooling over!
Nusa Dua: This is the more touristy part of the island, so activities and food nearby are price-adjusted (i.e. more expensive!) accordingly – we ended up taking cabs north almost every evening.
South Kuta: Home to Padang Padang Beach, where you must go to see the breath-taking beaches and rock formations (surfing here too). You’ll also find Jimbaran Bay, where you should go for a romantic seafood dinner!
Legian: Just north of Kuta and south of Seminyak, this is a total surfer spot (i.e. Australians everywhere!). Sasha did his surfing classes in Legian, and we ate at Bella Vista – definitely worth coming here if you want to surf or see gorgeous beaches.

Map by Kate Evans

Love to travel? Check out my other guides to Paris, Durango (Colorado), Austin, Houston, Washington, DC. I’m also working on ones for Istanbul, Athens, and San Francisco. More to come soon!

Wanderlust December 22, 2012

And finally – the Parthenon

Our final day in Athens proved just as busy as the others, as we visited the last of the “must sees.” We ate lunch at Thanasis, which was the most Greek restaurant so far, and the meal was absolutely delicious (see pictures below). If only the house wine in the states tasted this good! We entered the Kapnikarea Church in the Monastiraki area, where we paid tribute to the living and the dead in true Orthodox manner. Afterwards, we walked up to the Parthenon, which is truly breathtaking. It was very cold and windy today, so we stopped by Piazza Duomo for coffee (Sasha went Irish, naturally). Then we walked another 2 miles (uphill, oh heavens) to the highest point in Athens – Mt. Lycabettus. We were winded when we got to the top, but it was worth it for the views. We drank tea and coffee at the restaurant, then rode the funicular to the base and wandered through the Kolonaki area on the way back to the hotel. Another amazing day – wine tour in Corinth tomorrow!
Sasha, loving his Greek beer, ready for the most authentic meal yet at Thanasis