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Mexico City Travel Guide

We left for Mexico City with friends of ours early Thursday morning and landed around 10am. Our fully-packed agenda started almost immediately after checking into the Meridien Hotel (located near the Paseo de la Reforma – see more below). We were in town for one of my best friend’s weddings – her and her husband are both from Central America, and chose this gorgeous city for the wedding – I am so glad they did.

Some of my favorite ‘to do’s’ include eating dinner at Morablanca in the trendy Polanco area, sipping on delicious sangria at La Casa de las Sirenas while overlooking Mexico City’s Metropolitan Cathedral (so incredibly ornate and gorgeous), walking around the Castillo de Chapultepec (travel around the park via train), exploring the Saturday bazaar in the San Angel area, and getting lost in the treetops at the Condesa DF hotel rooftop bar.

I’ve created a travel guide to inspire you to travel to Mexico City and then help you plan your trip! Many of the recommendations below are from my older sister’s good friend, Marina, who is from Mexico City and also got married there earlier this year. We also received tips from a friend’s uncle who visits there often, and from a fellow blogger, Ashton, whose wedding site was extremely useful in planning our long weekend.

Click here to see a complete list of my travel guides, which includes Bali, Paris, Istanbul, Durango, Austin, Houston, Washington, DC and San Francisco. Up next? Athens. If you’re interested in contributing to Snapshots and My Thoughts for a city guide post, please contact me.

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Must See Places

  • Castillo de Chapultepec (“Chapultepec Castle”): Chapultepec Castle is located on top of Chapultepec Hill, located in the middle of Chapultepec Park at a height of 7,628 ft. above sea level. The site of the hill was a sacred place for Aztecs, and the buildings atop it have served several purposes during its history, including that of Military Academy, Imperial residence, Presidential home, observatory, and presently, the Museo Nacional de Historia. The castile is gorgeous and definitely worth the slight trek through the park.
  • Museo Nacional de Antropología (National Museum of Anthropology): This museum is the most visited in Mexico. Located in the area between Paseo de la Reforma and Calle Mahatma Gandhi within Chapultepec Park, the museum contains significant archaeological and anthropological artifacts from the pre-Columbian heritage of Mexico, such as the Stone of the Sun (or the Aztec calendar stone) and the 16th-century Aztec statue of Xochipilli.
  • Alameda Central Park: The Alameda Central park is a green garden with paved paths and decorative fountains and statues, and is frequently the center of civic events. The area used to be an Aztec marketplace. The park was created in 1592, and the name comes from the Spanish word álamo, which means poplar tree.
  • Casa de los Azulejos (House of Tiles”): The House of Tile is an 18th-century palace which was built by the Count del Valle de Orizaba family. What makes this palace distinctive is that its facade on three sides is completely covered in the expensive blue and white tile of Puebla state. The palace remained in private hands until near the end of the 19th century. It changed hands several times before being bought by brothers who expanded their soda fountain/drugstore business into one of the best-recognized restaurant chains in Mexico called Sanborns. The house today serves as their flagship restaurant.
  • Zocalo: Zocalo is the main plaza of Mexico City, and it was once the main ceremonial center in the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan and from the colonial period on, the main plaza or square in the heart of the historic center of the city. The plaza used to be known simply as the “Main Square” or “Arms Square,” and today its formal name is Plaza de la Constitución. However, it is almost always called the Zócalo today. Plans were made to erect a column as a monument to Independence, but only the base, or zócalo, was ever built.
  • Frida Kahlo Museum: Also known as La Casa Azul (or Blue House), the museum is actually the house where she was born and also died. The nickname, Blue House, is due to the structure’s cobalt-blue walls. The historic house museum and art museum is dedicated to the life and work of Mexican artist Frida Kahlo. It is located in the Colonia del Carmen neighborhood of Coyoacán. The building was the birthplace of Kahlo and is also the home where she grew up, lived with her husband Diego Rivera for a number of years, and eventually died, in one of the rooms on the upper floor. In 1958, Diego Rivera donated the home and its contents in order to turn it into a museum in Frida’s honor.

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Neighborhood Guides

Click here for a Google map of the main attractions and restaurants

Colonia Polanco

Do and See

This neighborhood is known for nice shops, great restaurants and good people watching. Popular activities in this neighborhood include going on a walk through Parque Lincoln and down Ave. Masaryk for good shopping. Stop by Tane on Ave. Masaryk for silver jewelry and home decorations, or visit the outdoor shopping mall Antara where you will find a few stores not available in the US (Purificacion Garcia, Uterque, Massimo Dutti and Rapsodia). Another one of the main attractions is Castillo de Chapultepec, which is the beautiful castle in the Chapultepec Park. Enjoy the view from the top while you learn about the history of Colonial Mexico. Nearby, you’ll find the National Museum of Anthropology and The Museum of Modern Art.

Eat

Eat breakfast at MaquePasteleria BondiCafe Budapest or Noisette.

Eat dinner or lunch at Tori Tori (Temistocles location), LampugaMorablanca (incredible atmosphere), Bar TomateDulce PatriaJaponezDulcinea or El Chiringuito.

Night Life

Go to Limantour or La Surtidora for cocktails at the end of the day.


Colonia Roma and Colonia Condesa

Do and See

These neighboring colonia’s are known for their architecture – a lot of the streets are similar to ones you would find in Europe. Walk down Colima Street, Orizaba Street, Parque Rio de Janeiro, Parque Mexico, Parque Espana, Casa Lamm and Ave. Alvaro Obregon for gorgeous scenery.

Eat

Eat lunch or dinner at Los Panchos, Contramar (best tuna tostadas in the city and phenomenal sangria), Maximo BistrotEl CalifaRosetta or Romita Comedor. You should get drinks across from Contramar at a restaurant called Fisher’s and sit in the enclosed front patio.

Night Life

Get drinks at Blue Bar at Camino Real Hotel or have drinks on the rooftop of Condesa DF. Another option is Cabrera 7.


Paseo de la Reforma

Do and See
Every Sunday, Paseo de la Reforma is closed to cars until 2pm which makes it the perfect day to walk (or bike) from Polanco to the Historic Center. Walk through Alameda Central Park and arrive at Bellas Artes, the performing arts center. Take the Street 5 de Mayo, where you will pass by the House of Tiles, a few blocks to the Zocalo (Constitutional Plaza). Visit the CathedralNational Palace (with murals by Diego Rivera inside) and Templo Mayor. Stop by Dulceria de Celaya, which is a very cute candy shop with over 150 different types of Mexican candy

Eat

Eat lunch or dinner at La Casa de las Sirenas (amazing views and delicious queso), Azul HistoricoEl Cardenal, El Danubio, or Casino Espanol.

Night Life

Get drinks at Bar Milan – their mojitos are legendary, and this bar is voted one of the best in the city.


Colonia San Angel

Do and See

This neighborhood is known for its narrow cobblestone streets and is an oasis in otherwise bustling Mexico City. You should visit the Frida Kahlo Museum in the nearby suburb, Coyoacan. In addition, go to the market on Saturday – so many amazing gems to be found.

Eat

Enjoy Sunday brunch at the San Angel Inn and eat at Keizo for lunch or dinner.

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Tips when visiting Mexico City

  • Money: The easiest Peso denominations to carry around are 20 (blue) 50 and 100 (red).  Once you break some 100 peso notes, you’ll have some 10 peso and 5 peso coins, which are good for tipping.
  • Water: The trick to staying hydrated while visiting Mexico City is to buy several liter bottles of purified water at one of the local convenience stores and carry one wherever you go. There is a big convenience store chain called OXXO, and they are everywhere. There are also tons of independent grocery/convenience stores called abarrotes (which means groceries).  They are everywhere and mostly look like a storage room filled with junk – but they sell everything and all have an abarrotes sign out front. There will be an OXXO or an abarrote store within a block of your hotel.
  • Taxis: Make sure to take hotel taxis, and try to make an arrangement with one to use him for the whole day. Ask the hotel concierge to quote the price of your journey if you’re taking a private car without a meter. Also, when you are at a restaurant or bar, ask your waiter or the maître ‘d to call a cab for you. This is common practice and safe. Also, make sure that you tip the doorman, cab drivers, etc. a blue note (100 pesos or about 80 cents) or a red note (200 pesos).
  • Attire: People dress up to go out at night – it’s a very well-dressed city.
  • Sidewalks: Walking on sidewalks in Mexico is a heads up experience. There are always sharp objects, wires, rebar and  hard stuff hanging off roofs, doors, walls and telephone poles that are easy to walk right into, as there are holes, cracks and trip hazards on the sidewalks. Walk slowly and pay attention to where you’re stepping. Also, remember that cars rule in Mexico City, so cross at lights and look both ways if you decide to step off the curb.

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Istanbul Travel Guide

For years and years, I dreamed of going to Istanbul, and two years ago, Sasha and I decided to travel there after his MBA international trip took him to Accra, Ghana. He met me in Turkey, and we spent five days adventuring before heading to Athens (also highly recommended – travel guide to come soon!). There are so many iconic sites to see and oodles of delicious Turkish food and wine to be eaten. We both agree that our days in Turkey were some of our favorite together – this also includes the latter half of our trip, during which we went to Cappadocia. See photos of Cappadocia here.

I kept a very good travel diary while I was there, which was very helpful in writing this post. I also blogged while we were traveling – you can read the Istanbul posts here, here and here – lots of pictures! I have the travel bug and am dying to take Isla on an adventure, which Sasha laughs at. We are going to Mexico City in just a few weeks to celebrate one of my best friend’s weddings – I cannot wait to explore this historic city with some of my closest friends.

Have you ever been to Istanbul? If so, what would you add to my travel guide below? Click here to see a complete list of my travel guides, which includes BaliParisDurangoAustinHoustonWashington, DC,  and San Francisco.


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Food + Drink

Amedros Cafe – True story – Sasha and I still talk about the halloumi cheese appetizer we got at Amedros Cafe. It was that good (and there’s a photo here).

Pasazade Restaurant – We were starving, walking around Istanbul trying to find Pasazade Restaurant after tackling some of the big sites earlier in the day. When we finally found Pasazade (check out TripAdvisor, I’m not the only one to recommend it!), we were overwhelmed by the happy servers. The entire staff was so happy and accommodating. We ate the Vegetable Bükme as an appetizer, then I had the Herb Sauté with Mushrooms and Sasha ate the Seferceliye. We of course dabbled in the Turkish wine. We were most excited about the slanted white plates that the food is served in! It’s the little things in life, I suppose!

Aloran Cafe – We walked by Aloran Cafe and it was empty (December is not tourist season in Istanbul), so we kept walking, even though it was ranked highly on TripAdvisor. The owner came outside and convinced us to come in, and ohmygosh am I glad we did. Sasha ate the kebab and I had a mixed vegetable dish – we were so full by the time we left, it wasn’t even funny. We had the Turkish wine recommended by our waiter and moved from glasses to a bottle rather quickly.

Red River – If you want to enter back into the Western world for a minute or two, go to Red River for a drink. We got complimentary drinks because we are from Texas, duh!

Al Bushra Restaurant and Bar  (at Hilton Istanbul) – The views from this delicious restaurant are unbelievable. We felt funny eating at the hotel where we were staying, as we typically avoid that, but it was highly recommended by past visitors, so we gave it a try. This Lebanese restaurant was intimate with low lighting and round tables with comfy cushions. I ordered the falafel and highly recommend it!

Juno – We went to this eclectic little restaurant near the Hilton for a drink before dinner, and ended up staying to eat as we loved the atmosphere. We asked the waiter what he recommended (one meat, one vegetarian) and ordered that! I don’t think you can go wrong at Juno.

Pierre Loti Cafe – Apple tea. That’s all I need to say. I will dream of that drink forever! This little cafe boats amazing views of the Golden Horn. We also had Turkish coffee, which tasted like heaven as well.


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Sites

Basilica Cistern – These underground caverns are the largest of several hundred ancient cisterns that lie beneath the city of Istanbul. The cistern was built in the 6th century during the reign of Byzantine Emperor Justinian I. The lighting is kind of eerie, but it’s worth visiting.

Topkapi Palace – This large palace was the primary residence of the Ottoman sultans for approximately 400 years.  As well as a royal residence, the palace was a setting for state occasions and royal entertainments. Not only is the palace a majestic sight to see, the outer gardens are equally exquisite.

Hippodrome of Constantipole – The area is officially called Sultan Ahmet Square and used to be an area for the circus and other entertainment. The course of the old racetrack has been indicated with paving, although the actual track is 6+ feet  below the present surface. The surviving monuments are two obelisks and the Serpentine Column, and these now sit in holes in a landscaped garden. The walled obelisk is massive and definitely worthy of photographing. The hippodrome is in the same area as Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and Basilica Cistern.

Istanbul Archaeology Museum – We ducked into this museum as it started raining, and were really glad we had. The architecture of the old buildings and the gorgeous exhibits are fascinating – all signs have English translations, so you can follow along. If you are a museum person, I recommend you visit the Archaeology Museum.

Blue Mosque – One of the most famous sites in the world, the Blue Mosque (technically called Sultan Ahmed Mosque) will not fail to impress you. The mosque has one main dome, six minarets, and eight secondary domes. The design is the culmination of two centuries of Ottoman mosque development. It incorporates some Byzantine Christian elements of the neighboring Hagia Sophia with traditional Islamic architecture and is considered to be the last great mosque of the classical period. Be sure to wear conservative clothing during your trip to Istanbul – you will have to also wear a hijab (head scarf) before entering, but don’t worry, you’ll get one before you go in.

Hagia Sophia – Hagia Sophia s a former Greek Orthodox patriarchal church, that later became a mosque when Constantinople was conquered by Ottoman Turks. It is now a museum. You can see where the Muslims plastered over images of Jesus and Mary – it is a fascinating place to walk through. The view from the main entry (look upward) will take your breath away.

Gulhane Park – This park is luscious and green (and we visited in December!), and we spent about an hour just wandering through (and getting some delicious warm coffee). It’s a pleasant break from the busy hustle and bustle of the city.

Egyptian Spice Bazaar – The spice bazaar is a shock to your senses in the very best way. We spent about two hours just walking through and buying coffee, nuts, dried fruit and spices to take home. We bought the most amazing coffee (see note below), which all of the gift recipients loved.

Grand Bazaar – The grand bazaar is also rather overwhelming, as it is literally a maze of stores. As long as you’re not claustrophobic, you will love it. The stores aren’t selling high-end goods, but the trinkets, scarfs, candles, etc. are definitely worth looking through.

Rüstem Pasha Mosque – The Rüstem Pasha Mosque is famous for its large quantities of exquisite İznik tiles, set in a very wide variety of beautiful floral and geometric designs. The mosque is built on a high terrace over a complex of vaulted shops, whose rents were intended to financially support the mosque complex. The narrow, twisting interior flights of steps in the corners give access to a spacious courtyard. We went into this quiet mosque for a private tour – it was very calm and beautiful.

Pierre Loti Funicular – We rode the funicular ride up to the top of Pierre Loti Cafe, where the views of the Golden Horn are breathtaking. The hot apple tea at the cafe (mentioned above) was a perfect treat to sip on while taking in the views.


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Activities

  • Stand in line at the Egyptian Spice Bazaar to buy coffee from Mehmet Efendi – it is well worth the wait (and bring some home for family and friends!)
  • Sign up for a tour with True Blue Tours (request Yilmaz – he was wonderful)
  • Take a boat ride on the Bosphorus
  • Done a hijab and enter a mosque with a local who can explain what happens where and why
  • Drink lots and lots of Turkish wine
  • Order a clay pot dish, which they will break at your table
  • Get lost in the Grand Bazaar (make sure to haggle!)
  • Walk around Gulhane Park
  • Take pictures inside Hagia Sophia – it is gorgeous
  • Wander through the Basilica Cistern (get the audio guided tour – it’s worth it!)

Week 5 in Durango

Week five has come and gone, and ohmygosh, I am not ready to go back to the ‘real world’ (i.e. Texas). However, I do miss everyone like crazy, and cannot wait to hug all of my family and friends. This past week flew by in anticipation of one of my best friends, Kirby, arriving on Thursday. I managed to run every day this past week, clock between 13,000-20,000 steps every day, enjoy short hikes to the top of a nearby mountain in the mornings, continue my Illustrator 101 and Floral Arranging 101 classes, work on the blog (some fun giveaways coming up soon!), and spend lots of time with Sasha, Belle (our dog) and sweet Isla. We also hiked the 6 mi. trail of the Animas Mountain together for the first time – Sasha and I did it last Labor Day when we were visiting (see photos here).

As you can tell from the thousands of photos below, I love taking pictures of Isla’s cute face, because I know I won’t have as much time to once we are back in Houston (and because she cannot yet tell me to stop).

In case you want to keep track of our Colorado sabbatical, you can also read about Week 1, Weeks 2 and 3, and Week 4.

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Isla being sassy in her Carter’s Romper (similar here) – that last face kills me – her personality is shining through

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Pretty in pink (and white!)

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Cheesin’ it up

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Hot pink is my absolute favorite (similar bodysuit here)

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Someone was none-too-pleased with us taking photos before she got to eat ‘lunch’

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Bows on bows on bows (buy dress here) – and Sophie the Giraffe making an appearance (and Isla loves her hands if you can’t tell!)

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I swear this isn’t a hunger cue, Isla just adores her hands (praying this is ‘self soothing’!)

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Kisses from her ‘Tata’ and (the much dreaded) tummy time (similar outfit here)

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Saturday mornings are for PJs and superman time with dad

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Her hair is seriously out of control, but I love it

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Isla’s little Gap peplum top and leggings

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This was taken after five minutes in her new heaven – i.e. the Skip Hop Treetop Friends Activity Gym… she’s enamored (this is a GREAT baby shower gift)

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Loving the views from the top of the Animas Mountain – Isla loves the view from over my shoulder (her favorite holding position)

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Vegan ice cream at Cream Bean Berry – my one true weakness!

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Isla LOVES (eating) this lovie!

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A sneak preview of my first homework assignment from Floral Arranging 101 (more to come tomorrow!)


Three weeks left! Have a great day. xo

 

Houston Weekend Travel Guide

williams-water-wallIt is no secret that I love Houston. After moving back to the city from Austin, where I went to college, I became an adventurer of my own habitat. I wanted to try every restaurant, see every sight, walk on all the trails, etc. I also love to travel to new cities in the US, and in the last 2 years covered San Francisco (6 times), Los Angeles, Boston (3 times), Miami, Portland, Minneapolis, New York, Denver, Durango, Dallas, Austin, Chicago (2 times), Oklahoma City, Las Vegas, Bozeman (Montana), and Washington DC. I would always have a fully packed agenda for all of these places, which included food, event, and sightseeing recommendations. I thought it would be fun to create my own Houston weekend guide (Friday evening through Sunday night)! Hopefully you find this list useful.

biscuit-paint-wall-montrose-houston-biscuitpaintwallFriday Evening

  • Take pictures at the Waterwall Park (Galleria)
  • Enjoy happy hour at Anvil (Montrose) – try the French 75! or go to Bar Boheme for a more relaxed vibe
  • If you go to Anvil, walk across the street and take a picture outside of Biscuit Home (#biscuitartwall on Instagram) and check out their gorgeous, slightly eclectic selection of home goods
  • Eat at Indika (Montrose) if you like Indian food or head to Benjy’s (Rice Military and Rice Village) if you prefer modern American cuisine
  • Head to Sprinkles for a cupcake or to Pinkberry (both River Oaks) for some frozen yogurt
  • Drive down Westheimer to Underbelly or Hay Merchant (both Montrose)

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Saturday 


Beer Can House

Sunday


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Voilà. There you have it – some suggestions for a “perfect weekend in Houston.” There are, of course, tons and tons more fun things to do in this city, but I had to narrow it down. Some additional items include:

Visit the Bayou Bend Collection

Go to the Museum of Fine Arts Houston

Run at Memorial Park

Do a Segway Tour of Downtown

Visit the Saint Arnold’s Brewery

Take a cruise down the Bayou on a canoe or kayak

Go and experience Houston’s Theater scene

Laugh out loud at ComedySportz

Take a tour of Houston’s underground tunnel system downtown

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I am always open to suggestions and also would love to help you plan a personalized trip if you’re coming to visit the Bayou City. Please email me!

Picture 1 // 2 // 3 // 4 // 5 // 6  // Featured

Paris City Guide

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There is definitely no city in the world I love more than Paris. Growing up, it was always my dream to move there and spend my time strolling the bustling streets, speaking French with strangers, sipping coffee at a bijoux-cafe and wine on the Seine. In 2010, I got an internship in the City of Lights, and after a two week stint at the Cannes Film Festival, I made my way up north to Paris, where I spent the next three months adventuring (and blogging every day). I was fortunate enough to have one of my best friends, Andrew, also working there – by complete chance. We made a pact to adventure every single night – never to waste a moment in the most exciting city in the world. I honestly did not want to leave, so in 2010, after I graduated from The University of Texas at Austin, I went back with my family. Again, in 2012, Sasha and I made our way to Paris, at the end of our vacation to Turkey and Greece. I genuinely think that being a tour guide in that city, which was once my home, is my favorite thing in the world. If you haven’t gone, you must. And when you go, I suggest you try some of my favorite things to do.

Food

Best Falafel: L’As du Fallafel (Le Marais)

Best Mediterranean: Chez Marianne (Le Marais) and Beytouti (Hôtel-de-Ville)

Best Romantic Dinner: Le Cafe de l’Homme (Trocadéro)

Best Casual Dinner: Le Pause Cafe (Bastille)

Best Lunch Cafe: Cafe Le Buci (SaintGermaindesPrés) and Le Restaurant (Luxembourg)

Best Dinner with Views: Restaurant Georges (Hôtel-de-Ville)

Best Dinner for People Watching: Le Bonaparte (SaintGermaindesPrés)

Best Frozen Yogurt: MyBerry (Le Marais)

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Drinks

Best Coffee + People Watching: Les Deux Magots

Best Peaceful Coffee: Telescope Cafe

Best Smoothies: Le Paradis du Fruit

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Sightseeing

Best Neighborhood to Get Lost In: Le Marais

Best Walking Tours: Paris Walks

Best Boat Tours: Bateaux Mouches

Most Extravagent Gardens: Le Palace de Versaille

Best Peaceful Park: Les Jardins de Luxembourg

Best Views of the City: Sacre Coeur

Most Iconic: Eiffel Tower (obviously)

Most Gorgeous “Square”: Les Places des Vosges

Best Way to Get Around Town: Velib

Best Church: Eglise Saint Germain des Pres

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Museums

Best Indoor Museum: L’Orangerie

Best (Mainly) Outdoor Museum: Rodin Museum

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Shopping

Best Boutiques: Le Comptoir de Cotonniers and Kookai

Best Department Shopping: BHV

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Accomodation

Best Hotel: Hotel Bel-Ami

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Nightlife

Best People Watching Bar: Le Petit Fer du Cheval

Favorite Night Activity: Drinking Wine on the Seine

Other Favorite Night Activity: Sitting on the Champs de Mars, watching the Eiffel Tower sparkle

Favorite Bridge To Sit on at Night: Pont des Arts

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Some of my favorite pictures below from 2009, 2010 and 2012… time for another trip soon, especially as I’m reading The Paris Wife and am so nostalgic!

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L’Arc de Triomphe, 2009

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Le Petit Fer au Cheval (favorite bar!), 2009

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Sacre-Coeur, 2009

Me in the Gardens

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Le Louvre, 2009

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Cars Rouges, 2009

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Chez Francis, 2009

Finally In Luxembourg Gardens

Le Jardin de Luxembourg, 2009
Me with Paris Plages

Paris Plages, 2009

Mom and I with Notre Dame

Notre-Dame, 2009

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Le Creperie Suzette (love this wine bar), 2010

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L’As du Fallafel, 2012

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Notre-Dame, 2012

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Le Louvre, 2012

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Eiffel Tower, 2012

PS What a difference a camera makes! Glad I finally got my DSLR.

PPS Illustrated map of Paris via Rifle Paper Co (love it)